Sunday, April 29, 2012
Friday, April 6, 2012
|"So is this a side-pull or what?"|
If you're a regular indoor climber, this should be a familiar scenario.
You're making the plunge, trying your hands on that route a grade higher than your current comfort zone. You psyche yourself up, even though on the back of your mind you know you're probably not going to make it. You start making your ascent thinking "This is not so bad", and then it hits you.
"I'm supposed to touch this with my HAND?"
Disclaimer: This post focuses on indoor holds mainly.
Wednesday, March 28, 2012
|You sure everyone said they were here...!?|
Friday, March 23, 2012
Born in the Czech Republic (Brno to be precise) on February 5th 1993, he began climbing at 6 and managed to lead 6a in the same year, then by the age of 8 he had successfully on sighted 7b+. The grades keep going up until he hits fame in the magazines in 2005 at the age of 12 for on sighting 8b. Ondra climbs his first 9a in 2006 and in March 2011 he became the second person ever to on sight 8c+ (Kidetasunaren balio erantsia) just under a month after leading 9b (La Capella) and has since on sighted a further 6 8c+'s. For those of you interested in bouldering he put 2 8c's(V16) under his belt in November 2011 (Big Paw and From Dirt Grow the Flowers).
His competition career has been pretty much the same story of success and he has won a number of events and is the first person to have won both the IFSC Bouldering World Cup and the IFSC Lead World Cup.
If you want a more detailed bio I'd recommend reading his Wikipedia page, his unofficial website or watching the Wizard's Apprentice.
Monday, March 19, 2012
|"Just calling to check. You wanted slack, right?"|
Of course, safety only works if it's taken seriously. So today, I'll talk about belaying.
If you don't already know how to belay, get lessons from qualified instructors before reading on - I'm not going to teach you how over the internet.
Also, I don't care if your friend knows how to belay - unless they've been trained to be an instructor, don't blag free lessons off them - it'd be like asking a bomb disposable expert how to defuse a single bomb and then head to the war zone, instead of learning how explosives and detonation devices work.
Friday, March 16, 2012
|That Guy looks familiar |
Firstly I better say hi! My name's Kiaran, I climb and Stan is letting me post on his blog (not quite sure he understands what he's let himself in for...)
Thursday, March 15, 2012
|THIS is what I climb atop for my euphoria.|
It was my second attempt at the route, after falling off the crux during my onsight attempt last week. Oh and I mentioned doing this at Redpoint Centre because of their supposed higher grade level (*shrugs*).
So I messed up a move at one point, which left me wrong handed at a crucial section - managed to slowly sorted myself out and recovered; rested properly and cruised the crux with conviction.
As I topped out though, I realised that I wasn't get the sense of euphoria that I was expecting. It wasn't like I was playing it cool either, I just felt calm (but not zen) about it.
Having thought about it on the way home, I suddenly I realised exactly why - it's been exactly one year since I had my first climbing session, after passing my belay test.
Wednesday, March 7, 2012
"Are you kidding me?" is the general response I get when I suggest it for the first time to any of my fellow climbers. "Oh no, not again." would be the other common response when I reminded them the idea during our next session.
Some people think I'm obsessed with the idea, but then I've only done it about 3 or 4 times over the past 6 months. Though I sure as hell suggested it a lot.
So what's the dealio then?
Sunday, February 26, 2012
|Oh right... it's lower 'p'...|
Tuesday, February 21, 2012
|I was so chuffed, I grew a fist mustache|
My expectations were as non-existence, besides maybe falling off a load of times, apologising to Eloise on the camera and cringing at the recording to figure out what went wrong.
Except I didn't really get stuck at all. I fell off on a move because I rushed into it, I could have recomposed myself, I could have grown a manly beard. Hindsight is a bitch eh? Could I seriously have on-sighted a 6c+? Who knows? Who cares?
So instead tonight I decided to tried another 6c route, and on-sighted the shit out of it.
Saturday, February 18, 2012
This article was going to be along the lines of "Is Rock Climbing Right For Me?" But let's be honest here, when was the last time one of your friends said, "I was thinking about doing rock climbing, what do you reckon?"
... I'll tell you when. NEVER!
Admit it, the conversation usually goes more like this:
"Sorry, I can't come with you to the Pencil History Museum this weekend. I'm doing something more worthwhile - like rock climbing. You should come along!"
"Rock climbing? But I'd never have imagined you as a climber! Alas, such exciting sport is out of my grasp, my arms are simply too feeble for something like that."
Friday, February 3, 2012
|Caught black and white handed.|
What you probably didn't know (but possibly suspected) is that I also like to explore other people's stashes as well.
So what is it with my obsession of Rock Climbing videos?
Do I particularly like staring at my own arse for prolonged periods?
Do I frequently compare mine to other people's?
Sunday, January 29, 2012
|Yep, not scary at all.|
Almost every one will tell you that you need to practice enough falls to get the fear out of you. Get to the top of the wall, don't clip in at the screwgate and just jump.
When you fall enough times, you'll learn to trust the rope and the safety etc. You want to know your belay
I call bullshit on that theory.
Saturday, January 28, 2012
|Lovebirds are smug creatures,|
just look at the background...
Like most climbers, I didn't understand the concept of climbing with your feet. What I lacked in skills, I made up for with my unfound confidence in my climbing abilities my the early days of climbing.
Friday, January 27, 2012
|So that's where all the climbers went.|
I have no data to validate this, but I'm confident staff at RedPoint would confirm that client level tends to dip with the temperature during the festive period.
Thursday, January 26, 2012
|This wall was dedicated to Skittles|
Let's talk history. I was born in the Year of the Monkey under the Chinese zodiac (I'd have preferred Panda but apparently that only comes round like once every 127 years), and just like everyone else who were born in the same Lunar Year, I was born slim and agile like a monkey and I 'Entertain' others with my antics, sometimes with horrific consequences.
I'll be honest, climbing hadn't always been 'my thing'. You see, I've got this slight handicap where I shit bricks at high altitude. It's not exactly vertigo or acrophobia, I guess height isn't the issue, the idea of falling is - and there's nothing irrational about that.